A whale nursery can be found along our coast right in De Hoop Nature Reserve, at the end of the Southern Right's epic annual migration - making this seasonal spectacle a worthy South African bucketlist beach break.
Words by Secret Getaway Co-Founder Andrea Britt.
De Hoop Nature Reserve is an ideal destination to visit all year round, but during early Spring, there is a new dimension beyond the lure of the spring daisies and flowers blooming in late August and September.
Whale Watching Inspiration
The arrival of whales to our shores was always a family pilgrimage we did to Hermanus as a child, and yet, it is one I've not continued with as an adult. So when the opportunity arose to experience Lekkerwater Beach Lodge in De Hoop Nature Reserve, first-hand during whale season, I didn't need a second invitation. Nor did the destination disappoint.
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Getting there
Leaving Cape Town mid-morning, we arrived at the gates of De Hoop Reserve at 14h00. It's a straight drive of 3.5 hours, but if you take into account compulsory craft, and pie stops, it's just over 4 hours.One of the unique features of how Lekkerwater is operated is that guests arrive together on the same dates and depart together; this creates a wonderful sense of community and connection, especially with communal dining and excursions.
Arrival at Lekkerwater Beach Lodge
We arrived at the rendezvous point when we were told and were met by a patiently waiting Billy, the resident Nature Guide, with an incredible depth of knowledge in two very different biomes and ecosystems.
Greeted with cold drinks and refreshing cotton face towels, as one gets on a game reserve, it was a perfect scene-setting moment before we clamoured aboard the game viewer, leaving our cars with their urban expectations behind.
Driving up the hilly terrain, an incredible vista opens up where a triad of Bontebok could be spotted (and apparently an Eland, but I didn't spot this one). Quickly it became clear the true spectacle of nature was beyond the shore, not beside us, as everyone simultaneously cried out, "Oh Look, a Whale!" not realising how quickly we would become accustomed to seeing their leaping frolics and tail waving.
Settling into a unique Beach Break location
The individual units are close enough to the main lodge to make the quick stroll to dinner and meals easy (even during a drizzly day - which was my personal favourite). Although the perfectly toasty indoor fireplaces and epic bedside views of the waves and whales, makes leaving far harder than expected.The units are wonderful, with a well-positioned deck that offers privacy from the other units and well-placed windows to make it feel as if you are alone in your lofty wonder. There is a sofa, a massive bed, a small tea station (no fridge, which is fine) and a large open-plan shower. So the room is compact, but that was part of the design challenge this lodge faced in its creation to not extend beyond the original footprint of the previous building. More on the history of the location later. As we were there in September, we enjoyed all four seasons during our brief two-night stay and whilst sunshine is amazing for the Fynbos walk and all the flowers, the afternoon we had drizzle stood out. Rain on an ocean is one of the most mesmerising views. It certainly is one aspect of a wintery beach break not to overlook.
Things to do at Lekkerwater
The morning Marine Nature walk entailed a very slow but incredible wander along the De Hoop Nature Reserves pristine coastline admiring tidal pools: crystal clear windows into the aquatic world. We got so close that I even took an unexpected tumble into the surf (which all adds to the melodrama, but my phone (and photos) did not offer the same stoic approach of getting up and carrying on).Luckily, this destination is one where the 'stock' images of the lodge do in fact translate into reality.
READ: 5 SA Tidal Pools to Try
(Image courtesy of Lekkerwater Facebook page)
The afternoon Fynbos hike was a steep walk up the hill at the back of the lodge to understand more about the Fynbos and fauna in the De Hoop Reserve (a sizeable 75,000ha).
Yet, for all its vastness, the minuscule was the most captivating.
Fascinating anecdotes about tiny flowers best viewed with a magnifying lens on your phone, the call of birds, and a baboon skull in a distant cave are the most memorable.
Dining
The food and snacks were spectacular at Lekkerwater. The range was perfect, with each meal being 'local' without being contrived and traditional.
Afternoon tea was quite possibly my favourite treat after our return from the Afternoon Nature Walk. Meals were served communally along a large table, it was interesting to see that the vegetarian options looked as delicious as the main meat options. So much pride was placed in the creation and plating by the Kitchen team.
Chatting with the host, our guide, and the other guests made the experience something quite unexpected, and unique beyond just the idyllic location.
The History of Lekkerwater Beach Lodge
Lekkerwater has a remarkable history. A portrait of what the building once was pays homage to this just above the main guest area fireplace, which is the original fireplace stack.
The former holiday home for FW De Klerk (and where he found out he had been awarded the shared Nobel Peace Prize) and apparently a destination visited by Mandela himself.
When a fire razed most of the original historic building in 2015, it opened up an opportunity to rebuild and invite a new type of traveller and thinker to view these shores. Now run by Natural Selections, their team have taken this new vision forward in a dedicated manner.
We all stand on the shoulders of giants, and for me, the big reflection point was that the giants and true icons of history were the ones still frolicking and waving their tails from beyond the shoreline.
It is a South African highlight I hope more members at Secret Getaway can witness and draw inspiration from!
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