Secret Graaff Reinet | Explore the Gem of the Karoo

05 Nov 2022 Secret Getaway 5 min read

Graaff Reinet

Graaff-Reinet is a town well associated with the vast openness of the Karoo, with sheep farms the size of some European countries, as well as the craggy Sneeuberg Mountain Range that surrounds this town.

Known as the “Gem of the Karoo", Graaff-Reinet offers a lush, green oasis stark in contrast to the dull hues of the surrounding desert-like plains. As a modern traveller this welcome reprieve in a long drive is wonderful, but as this is the 4th oldest town in South Africa, you can only imagine how valuable this was. A visit here is worth a longer stay then simply a lunch break or single night though, as the history of South Africa is revealed in a town with more national monuments than anywhere else in our country.

READ: Conversations | Conservationist and Mount Camdeboo Founder Iain Buchanan

GraafReinetRoad

National Monument Checklist

In 1786, Dutch East Indian Company Governor of the Cape, Cornelius Jacob van der Graaff founded Graaff-Reinet to bring a central administration town to the far Eastern Frontier of the Cape Colony. The name of the town comes from his wife’s maiden name: Cornelia Reinet: and Reinet House (originally a Parsonage) is one of the Architectural landmarks in this town.

To make it easier for you to explore, these are the Top 5 monuments to visit in Graaff-Reinet to get a flavour of the facets of this fascinating dorpie.

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BlackAcornGraafReinet

1. Reinet House


Visit the home of the first governor and his wife to view the oldest Black Acorn Grapevine, planted in 1870. A doll collection that can fascinate (or terrify depending on how many scary movies you’ve watched). Insider tip... take time to look up high in the gables for a motif of an hourglass with extended wings: a reminder to the town that “Time Flies”... an ironic inclusion for a building that is now a fascinating museum to a bygone era.

If you go:

FossiGraaf Reinet

2. The Old Library Museum

There is an amazing array of Rock Art Samples as well as fossils that are fascinating to see up close displayed at the Old Library Museum, but what is more remarkable is that this area was once underwater beneath a vast inland sea! In 1822 archaeologists unearthed incredible finds in the area and in fact there is even a palaeontological route to follow. This route is worth checking out if the ancient history of the area piques your curiosity.

If you go:


3. Take a Sip Back in TimeGraaff-Reinet Club

Image Courtesy of Graaff-Reinet Club Facebook

Have a drink at The Graaff-Reinet Club & look out for bullet holes shot into the bar-counter by the Cold Stream Guards in 1902! This is the second oldest social club in South Africa. Purchased in 1875, and in 1880 this mens-only; members-only club opened… so stringent an approval process in fact 2 doctors had to approve the members! Recently under new management this is definitely no longer a Mens-Only club and is becoming a hub for locals... the Coldstream Restaurant nearby is also recently reopened since a fire during COVID and serves delectable local dishes.

If you go:

Afriaknis

4. Take a Tour with a Boer

There are some fabulous local guides to unlock the magic of this town, but one of the most novel is rum-distilling, long-bearded tour guide Dawid De Wet. He offers a variety of tours, including local hikes, or even a cycle through the town getting to know the local hangouts and highlights...but if you really would like to get a flavour of this area, best start with his very own Rum: Afrikanis. There is even a tasting room in Somerset Street at "Hello You" Restaurant.

If you go:

NgKerk Graaff ReinetImage Courtesy of Graaff-Reinet Facebook

5. Take a Walk on the Old Side

Take a walk around the imposing and impressive Dutch Reform church square and see how many of the 220 National Monument plaques you can spot! Built in a horseshoe formation around the Church it highlights quite how important religion was in town development. Another fascinating stop is at McNaughton’s Bookshop which is run by local historian, David McNaughton a 5th generation local with a deep passion for this area and an exceptional knowledge!

If you go:

  • 7 Church Street, Graaff-Reinet, South Africa, 6280
  • Tel: +49 89 23978
  • email: [email protected]

Valley of Desolation at Sunset

Sunset in the Valley of Desolation

The Valley is home to over 200 different species of birds including swifts, falcons, buzzards and vultures. There are also many animals such as springbok, jackals and baboons that roam freely through the area. The flora includes succulents like Euphorbia candelabrum (candle plant) which grows up to six metres in height with thick branches covered in spines all around them.The Valley also has many caves throughout its length where you can explore inside them while learning about their geological makeup through information boards placed along your walkway outside each cave entrance - one thing though; they must be approached cautiously because they may hold some very dangerous snakes!

If You Go:

  • For up to date timing & rates: Sanparks Website
  • 2022 Costs: South African Citizens and Residents (with ID) R52 per adult, per day (R26 per child, per day | SADC Nationals (with passport) R104 per adult, per day R52 per child, per day Standard Conservation Fee (International Visitors) R160 per adult, per day R80 per child, per day.

Finally no trip to the area would not be complete without a visit to the neighbouring town of Nieu Bethesda.

Nieu Bethesda

Day Trip to Nieu-Bethesda

Historic stone water trenches still run along the the broad, dusty and untarred road, serenely distributing spring-fed water to the houses dotted along the road. A visit to the small town of Nieu-Bethesda similarly offers a refreshing taste of the much coveted, and seldom found salve to the rush of modern life. Peace and quiet. True peace and quiet.

Screenshot from 2022-11-05 16-14-50

Overlooking this beautiful town is the tall white steeple of the church. Interestingly this does not signify that this was a mission outpost or any such thing... in fact, this church is testimony to the unique spirit of the townspeople. Looking to save a many hour trip to the nearest church in Graaff-Reinet on a Sunday in the 1870s, a group of citizens petitioned the church and finally in 1905 it was inaugurated. A structure which still stands today and still lit by gas chandeliers that pre-date the arrival of electricity in the village. The imposing steeple and Church Clock tower continue to chime every hour, on the hour.

Yet, the fortunes of the town shifted over time and slowly it's inhabitants and usefulness as a community hub waned. It was the publishing of legendary Athol Fugard’s play ‘The Road to Mecca’ about the creative life of Helen Martins that sparked a revival of interest. Intrigued by the allure of this town, curious visitors came… and some just never left. The renaissance of this small town bred a new type of farmer: one who now cultivates creative visions of art and writing.

Owl House

The mecca of this creativity is still the Owl House. Helen Martins and her assistant, Koos Malgas, created a mystical and unforgettable vision in 1945. The Owl House and Camel Yard gave life and form to Helen's unique vision by transforming her simple home and garden into a monument of creativity using glass and cement. Now run as a museum, and known internationally as a remarkable example of outsider art, the Owl House is open to the public every day of the year (except 25 December).

If you go:

  • Website: The Owl House
  • Website: http://www.thebethesda.co.za/brunos-at-the-bethesda.html

Screenshot from 2022-11-05 16-15-22
Yet there is more to explore in this town, with one of the best fossil displays in the country at the Kitching Fossil centre, displaying fossils found in the area from 250 million years before humans arrived on the scene. You can also participate in a Fossil hunt!

If you go:

Karoo Fish Fossil

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